Dynamite's T-Maxx conversion kits include everything you need to shoehorn
a nitro-snorting, big-block engine into a T-Maxx. Dynamite offers conversion
kits for the original T-Maxx and the new 2.5 version; they are both available
with and without the Mach .26 engine. I tested the 2.5 version.
· Dynamite Mach .26 engine with pull-start and slide carburetor
· 3mm-thick, hard-anodized chassis
· Hard-anodized aluminum chassis braces
· 4, heavy-duty, universal drive shafts
· Heavy-duty, universal center drive shafts
· 6 drive cups
· Hard-anodized-aluminum, big-block engine mounts
· Polished tuned pipe & header
· High-volume air cleaner
· Essential hardware
· Photo-illustrated instruction manual
I converted my 2.5 T-Maxx with the full version of this kit in about 4
hours. The quality of parts is superb. The drive shafts have rubber boots
fitted over the universals to keep dirt out. The polished tuned pipe and
header will increase the power of big-block engines.
The hard-anodized parts on the chassis plate and braces will resist damage
from the abuse that off-road running can dish out. And the powerful Mach
.26 engine features a pull-starter, ABC construction, slide carb and large,
powder-coated, heat-sink head. One aspect of the kit that could be improved
is the instructions.
They aren't written with the novice in mind. General topics are covered,
but the ambiguous descriptions and vague pictures lead to guesswork and
head-scratching between steps. I began to build by disassembling and cleaning
all of the parts of my donor Maxx. I mounted the suspension assembly first
and then the electronics, the fuel tank, the transmission, the engine
and the exhaust system on the new, longer-than-stock chassis plate.
The new chassis plate increases the wheelbase by 1.6 inches (40.6mm)
to make room for the larger engine. In the final steps, I centered the
servo trims and set all of the linkages. A few words of advice for big-block
beginners: take your time to set the gear mesh between the clutch bell
and spur gear correctly, thread-lock all drive-train hardware, and don't
forget to tighten the slipper clutch to handle the increased power. Overall,
the kit went together very smoothly without any major modifications to
get proper fit and finish.
The Mach .26 has a throaty exhaust note that made my trigger finger hard
to restrain during engine break-in. Fortunately, the first few tanks of
fuel didn't last long because the rich carb settings made the big-block
thirsty for nitro.
After break-in, I adjusted the shift points and watched the Mach .26
whip the truck around like a rag doll. The increased chassis length helped
make the truck more stable, but the mighty Mach .26 engine can still wheelie
the truck onto its lid. Compared with the stock truck's balance, there
is a slight rearward shift in the center of gravity (CG) that's evident
during jumps and in its increased understeer in the corners. I adjusted
the caster shims to the rear positions to help compensate for the CG shift.
It made the truck well mannered around the track and a very well-balanced
The Dynamite conversion kits are packed with high-quality parts, include
everything you need to get the job done and their assembly is trouble-free.
If you're in the market for one of these kits, and you value your dollar
like I do, go with the kit that includes the Mach .26; it's worth the
dough. The Mach .26 engine is reliable, powerful and a perfect complement
to this kit. Bottom line: Dynamite has put together an explosive kit that
will propel your truck's fun-factor off the charts.